Hangzhou, China

The conference and trip were great. Our textbook was translated into Chinese for use in Taiwan a few year ago, but it isn't available in mainland China. A Chinese woman told me that they really want our book in mainland because of all the interest in leisure, and especially tourism!

The conference was great for making connections and hearing how tourism and leisure are making great strides around the world with city bids for sport and cultural events, and looking at things like infrastructure for tourism, esp. in the developing world. Really neat.

The big gala and dinner occured the night before we left. Rather than sitting with our cozy American friends, Marta and I sat at a table with my textbook friend, a Chinese woman and all her Chinese friends. Talk about setting yourself up for an interesting evening! Each course of the meal was placed on the lazy susan in the middle of the table, and of course, they expected us to try everything first. They were especially thrilled that we could use chopsticks. Much of the food was quite tasty...other things I kind of pushed around on the plate and smiled a lot.

I asked them how they felt about the situation with North Korea, adding that the newspapers make it sound like China is going to pressure N Korea to get in line. Their response was a little different, pointing out that the situation between the two countries is quite complex and they weren't so sure China should impose so many sanctions. Hum. I smiled and changed the subject.

Throughout the week there was lots of talk about how the Beijing Olympics 2008 will open China's doors to the world. Flying into Beijing you could see the brand new airport being built. Sewer systems are being installed in the city, 150 pollution-spewing businesses have been told to leave the city center, among many other things under construction for the Olympics. One thing that will be hard to address is the air pollution. I couldn't get over it, and everyone told me this was nothing, wait until the winter and spring.

But China seems to have come a long way in a short period of time. I'm reading Wild Swans by Jung Chang. She covers the history of China by describing 3 generations of women in her family up until the 1970s. When you read that, and think about what exists now in China, it's an unbelieveable transformation. Getting to see it with my own eyes is something I'll never forget.

I'm sending 2 pictures. One is of me drinking green tea. In China, hot water is poured over fresh tea leaves into a clear glass. You then strain the leaves as you drink through your teeth, as if eating with chopsticks isn't challenging enough. The other picture is a boat on West Lake where we were staying. You can barely see the mountains in the background for the air pollution.

February 2006 - Bangkok, Thailand

February 6-11, 2006

Got to our hotel in downtown Bangkok at 2:30 am Monday morning. We are staying at the 5 star Plaza Athenee Royal Meridian Hotel. United Airlines 747 was like an old jalopy but it got us first to Tokyo and then, another 6 hours later, to Thailand. The plane reminded me of the space ships in Dan’s Star Wars videos they way it bounced around like a ping pong ball. I was sure the wings would snap off, but apparently no one else shared my worries. There was lots of food and drink, plus my seat mates were from Thailand so had nice conversations. They taught me Thai words. Don't know if I slept much, I mostly just rested and closed my eyes. Once to our 5 star hotel (fanciest I’ve been to in a long time) it felt good to stretch out in bed. Hotel is very nice, but very hot. I don't think the lobby/restaurant is air conditioned. It's still rather dark outside this morning.

Right now it is 3:45 Tues morning in IL. It is fun hob-knobbing with ISU’s president. Had dinner on top of the Banyon Tree Hotel last night - 61st floor. Today we toured grand palace. My capri pants didn’t measure up so I was politely handed a wrap around skirt. Later I had a full body massage for $7, paid for by SWU, the Thai university. The massage place was also right next to the reclining Budda, but we were so relaxed after the massage that we forgot to check it out. I did surprisingly well with the massage.

Tonight we have dinner on the river. Food is good. Had foia grais (duck liver) in a soup, but the wine was fab... I've enjoyed the spicy food, although a lot of it is served buffet style which isn’t my favorite approach but when in Thailand, do as the Romans, er, I mean Thais.

Rossman and I go swimming every day before breakfast in the beautiful outdoor pool on the roof of our hotel. Went out with the girls (the high level administrators from ISU, heh, heh) to the night market last night. Just a bunch of shops where you bargain for gifts. Don't really know what to buy anyone so I'm just getting little Buddha statues, chop sticks, refrigerator magnets to give away. I'm told that Thais don't use chop sticks, but I doubt anyone will know this back home.

Today we go to the university. We were supposed to give a presentation to the students but poor planning and they have something else to do. Hum.

Our boat cruise was funny. A big ole rickety boat that swayed and bobbed in the river. Everyone kept it together and didn't get sick. A variety of Thai stir fry was served up with mounds of rice as the boat pitched and rolled its around the Chao Phraya river.

Not feeling so well this morning. Went to a cultural show which was good, but I slept through part of it as the chairs were too relaxing. Hope you guys are well. When I don't feel well then I just want to be home with you. But it's been 12 hours now and I'm sure I'll be better as today begins.

How is Dan doing? What’s the weather like? Anybody die? What other gossip is out there?

It's not quite Feb 10 (2 hours short) but I'm going to wish Tom Terrific happy birthday! I'd tell you to take the day off but you have to take care of Dan! Oh dear. Well, Happy Birthday to you just the same! I'll give you the day off when I get home.

Today we finished our work at the university. Made a presentation, met with deans, interviewed a potential graduate student, met with faculty, reviewed curriculum, and discussed the possibility of a faculty exchange this summer between the Thai university and ISU.

The Thai people go above and beyond with hospitality. It's been an amazing experience.

Hope all is well in the US. We fly home on Sunday and get back into Chicago at 2:30 after nearly 24 hours in travel time. I wonder what it will feel like to teach on Monday and attend meetings!

We went to a floating market today near the Burma border, SW of Bangkok. People sell their veggies and fruits from long boats. Pretty cool.

Am feeling better. The problem was I drank the water from the hotel room faucet which was a no no. Ended up with bacteria and needed an antibiotic.

Went to a floating market yesterday about 80 minutes away. Really neat.
The ISU gala was a classy affair. This trip has really made me feel thrilled that I work at ISU. I've thoroughly enjoyed getting to know 3 Thai women who have graduated from ISU with EdDs and now hold high admin positions at SWU.

Thai people look sooo young.

I am tired of buffet style food, Thai or otherwise. Please don't make rice for dinner on Sunday.

Most people went home today (pres and his entourage). Sandy, Bob and I return tomorrow and the last three return early next week. Our friend Panpim will take us shopping today. We had dinner at the Seafood Market Restaurant, a big brightly lit restaurant where you pick out the meat (seafood) you want and tell the cook how you want it prepared. You even go to an area of the restaurant where you pick out the wine you want. Everything is bought to your table and served lazy-susan style. Feeling better after my bout of bacteria, and being served my favorite food in the world (seafood), I was a happy camper! Plus, the wine was fab.

The trip home went well. At Tokyo, Bob and Sandy left 2 hours before me so I flew home across the pond alone. I enjoyed walking around the Tokyo airport but only bought batteries. Do you know they have little shelves that you can rent to sleep in? Reminds me of a crypt... They also had internet service which I enjoyed.

Tom met me in Chicago and it was great to be home. Thailand is a fascinating place. I would love to return and visit Chang Mai and the south coast. The Thai people were so welcoming and hospitable.

Russia: Vladimir & Moscow

Greetings from Vladimir, Russia which is just over 100 miles from Moscow. Vladimir is pronounced: Vladeemur with the accent on the "dee." The Vladimir Hotel room has hot water and lace on the pillow cases. Both the phone and TV work. 

We've been touring around today to the various historical sights. The churches here date back to1150. There are no pews in the churches. People stand in the middle of the floor for the entire ceremony. The churches I saw were mostly filled with older women wearing scarves. What is the word for grandmothers? Babushkas. I was scolded for taking a picture inside the church.

We visited a summer camp about 20 minutes from Vladimir located in a wooded area. The children lived in large dormitory type rooms. Everything looked spotless. We watched a presentation with music, dancing and singing. The kids stared at us and seemed genuinely interested in the "visitors." The mosquitoes were supersized, and the food and people delightful. And I've had huge, colorful caviar both days! The camp director hosted a private dinner party for us with tasty food. I wonder what the children ate that night? No vodka yet, but I'm not in a hurry.

Will someone who lives close to us please call Tom and ask if he is making Dan change his clothes everyday? I haven't been able to sleep much since I've been here, just can't get settled down to fall asleep.

We visited the historical town of Suzdal yesterday, full of wooden churches from the12th century made without nails...because nails were too expensive. Visited a working monastery and it was fascinating to see how hard the nuns worked at such a basic life. They cut and raked the hay by hand. Makes you think about how complicated we make our lives.

Today we biked around Vladimir with some older Russian teenagers. What is so clear is the transition the country is going through from the Soviet system to Capitalism. There are plenty of stores, supermarkets, and shops. We had our focus group meeting with kids and adults today about recreation/park opportunities in the city. Took notes so I can write a paper about it later.

The bikers took us out for ice cream and cake afterwards. The food continues to be tasty. There are many courses beginning with soup, appetizers, salad, and then a meat dish with some kind of starch. Then dessert. I also like the beer a lot, but the caviar has slowed down (maybe we'll have some tomorrow since it will be our last day before going to Moscow).

Our young 25 year old guide (as well as our colleague from ISU) explains that there are few work opportunities for kids in the summer. Everyone is looking for work, and parents seem to trump their kids when it comes to employment. So there's nothing to do but hang around, smoke, drink beer and get into trouble. That's why we are here to see what leisure opportunities exist...or don't.

We came to Moscow today. We'll be here for the rest of the trip. Walked everywhere - to the Kremlin, Red Square, St. Basil's Cathedral, Gorky Park. Arriving at Red Square was emotional. After reading The Russians and The New Russians by H. Smith, it's so hard to imagine how resilient the Russian people are to go from one extreme to the other (Communism to Capitalism).

Our Moscow guide is probably in her mid- to late 50s so she has really felt the effects of the transition more so than our 25 year old guide in Vladimir. Although, Yelena, the 25 yr old talked about how her parents (who are my age) were just settling into their working years with everything changed. She told me how her mom really appreciated women's fashion with the arrival of capitalism. The older guide says that many of her generation and older wish the old system were back in place where jobs and salaries could be expected. But she also enjoyed the more openness of the culture.

Tomorrow we'll tour the Kremlin, and Karen Hasara (former mayor of Springfield) has asked if we can tour the Parliament. Dad and Mom, Karen all attend the jazz festival in Hilton Head every year with her husband, Gerry. She says he organizes the Jazz Sunday Breakfast in Springfield...they live in Savanah during the winter. They even know jazz cornetist Eddie Polcer! And our Russian guide from Vladimir, Yelena, worked at a camp in NE PA and spent her evenings in Hancock. Such a small world.

Made it home last night at 11 pm. Had 3 good flights. It was a wonderful trip. Russia gets a bad rap in the media what with Yuko and the recent murder of the American journalist. Russia seems safe and welcoming to foreigners, especially Americans. While still in the midst of the transition to capitalism and there are definite economic challenges. Still, there's lots of road construction, sidewalk/painting projects, and building construction going on everywhere. The parks we visited have little money. Before perestroika (or "reform") in the early 90s, the Soviet system had parks with many amenities. They were a great source of pride. Today parks receive little funding from local governments so they must be creative in finding ways to raise money for their park employees. Vandalism is a real problem. Good news is that the majority of park directors and sports directors we met love their jobs and are enthusiastic about everything from skateparks to disc golf, and anything else. They love providing citizens with opportunities to enjoy their family/friends in outdoor and sport environments.

There was plenty of alcohol available. Open container prevails, with teenage boys walking around or riding a bus with a pint bottle of beer. From what I read, Gorbachev disliked alcohol and encouraged beer over vodka back in his day...maybe he thought the lesser of 2 evils? Still, it is a problem that Russians themselves discuss. The life expectancy of men is 58 years (largely due to alcoholism and smoking), and for women it's 70.

Marta and I concluded long before we left Russia that Yelena "made" the trip for us. This young woman is a skilled translator who knows how to navigate the bureaucracies of government. As we found ourselves in large meetings with TV cameras and reporters, Yelena handled it all with skill and finesse. Beyond the many appointments she made and the translations she did for us, she took us in and shared with us her life, her culture, and her dreams.

It's nice to be home!